Tag Archives: vogue

Lace stockings

Hey Jill P.:

I’ve been slogging through a sweater, but it is taking forever!  But I did just finish up another project that I’m eager to show off. 

It is the #31 Lace Stockings by Mari Muinonen/Tikru that were in the Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2009.

The yarn was Knit Picks Essential Kettle-Dyed in Eggplant.  I used a bit more than two balls.  It took me about a month to do the pair. 

There was a bit of a delay initially because Vogue didn’t publish all of the charts in the magazine.  And there was some lag time in getting it up on the website.  They went pretty quickly.  A nice thing about lace socks is there are so few stitches.  I usually use DPNs but I used two circulars for most of these.  The lace pattern on the front doesn’t divide in half easily, so it was better to have them all on one needle. 

If I were going to do them again, I would use a smaller gauge than recommended for the foot and ankle.  I went with 6st/in and the foot was a little loose for me.  I went down a needle size for the ankle and went back to the called for needle for the calf.  It was exciting not to have to make these bigger than called for.  I would also have put in one or two more repeats of the main lace pattern.  I think I would have liked a taller stocking. 

And I thought the Bettie’s Stockings looked trampy!

Yikes!  I imagine I’ll be wearing these with longer skirts.

There were a few small mistakes in the charts.  On the left side of Row 19 on Chart 2, there is, if I remember correctly, an extra stitch.  Also on the left tip of the leaf/flower, it is sometimes a K3tog and sometimes a K3tog tbl. 

I had some difficulty with the elastic at the top of the leg.  I first tried weaving clear elastic bands through the “eyelet rows” at the top of the stocking.  But there aren’t really any eyelet rows, and that just wasn’t working for me.  I ended up using some black elastic sewing thread.  On a non-cabled row, I would thread the elastic through the stitches on the needle like a lifeline.  Then I would knit the stitches as normal.  Except if there was a yo in the row that I thread through, then I knit the stitch and the elastic together.  This way the thread is pulled up with the stitch and is not just going horizontally across the yarnover.  It was too late for the first stocking, so I just thread the elastic through the back of the fabric in maybe 5 sections.  I just knotted the elastic together at the end of the rounds.  I needed to make it quite snug to stay up on my leg.  If there was no elastic, the stocking would eventually just make its way down to my ankle.  And by eventually I mean, like in two minutes.  Here’s a close-up of the first stocking where I didn’t put the elastic in while knitting:

You can still see the elastic, but I decided it was good enough.  I tried knitting the elastic thread in, but I wasn’t able to pull the elastic taut enough to do any good. 

Overall I’m pleased with them.  I hope they get some use.  Other than that I just started my Petal Halter, and am still working on the Mosiac Yoke Jacket.  I also have a baby present to get to really quickly.  It is going to be a girl and she’s due in two weeks!  I have no idea what to make! 

Jill B.

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Ravelympics Wrap-up

Jill P.:

Here it is, I medalled!

It was a close call, but I finished my dress.  Though, to be fair, I didn’t block it until after the flame went out.  Here it is in all it’s glory:

Specs

Pattern: #20 Ribbed Mini Dress by Mari Lynn Patrick in Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2007

Yarn: Filatura di Crosa Zarina.  I used a little bit over 7 balls.

Started Aug. 8, 2008 and finished in the early morning of Aug. 24, 2008.

I made the medium size, which had about 2 inches negative ease.  My row gauge was off, so I made quite a few adjustments in the raglan shaping and overall to replicate the right size.  I knit it in the round until after the waist ribbing.  Then I worked it as one piece flat until the armholes.  Then worked the fronts and back separately.  I think I knit a few extra garter rows for the button placket since it was looking a little snug to me.  I was having trouble getting my crochet border on the neckline to look polished, so I decided to pick up stitches and work about three rows in garter stitch before binding off.  I used some buttons I already had.  Kind of cheapies from Jo-Ann’s.

I wouldn’t quite call those invisible decreases as they do in the pattern.

Before I washed it, it looked really tiny.  It was super tight and a little shorter.  I washed it (more like wetted it) in the sink and then just laid it out flat to dry.  Now the yarn is super soft and it really relaxed.  I guess it was to be expected with superwash wool.  I bet if I machine dry it, it will snap back to its smaller size.  I am really happy with the fit now.  It’s still a shorter dress but no longer indecent.  Yay, liking things you finish!

I have recently become dissatisfied with my stockinette fabric.  My purls are always so much looser than my knits.  If I do my purls continental or if I knit backwards they are the same size as my knits.  But both of those ways are kind of slow to me.  My English purling is a lot faster.  I’ve been trying different things.  So far I’ve decided to keep my usual purling but to put a lot more tension into it.  But then I have to remember to do my knits loose like usual.  I’ve tried using a smaller needle for the purl side, but then my purls come out smaller than my knits.  It’s frustrating.  My new thing is just converting everything into the round if possible.

I’ve always been a firm supporter of doing things in pieces.  I don’t mind purling and I do like the stability of the seams.  I think part of it is me rebelling against this (what I consider) modern way of doing things.  I think for patterned fabric I could still do things flat.  But for stockinette it’s a lot easier to do things in the round.  The skirt part of the dress, done in the round, went so much faster than the top part that was done flat.  There are so many advantages to knitting in the round, it’s hard to argue with.

I’ve just started the ProtoPretty DNA Shell and have decided to convert it.  Because there’s a different pattern on the front and the back it might not be a smart idea.  But all even rows are purl, so it’s pretty simple to sub.  My gauge is a little looser, but I didn’t feel like switching needles.  So I’m just going to make the small size instead of the medium.  According to my calculations it will be less than an inch smaller all around.  And I have a limited amount of yarn.  Oh, I’m using the Bouton D’Or New Bamboo that you got me in Paris!  Very exciting.

Next time I’ll tell you about my trip up the Central Coast.  Fun!

Jill B.

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Input needed!

Jill P:

I’m trying to get myself ready for Ravelympics by training/swatching.  I had been planning on knitting the Road to Golden sweater from the Knitscene Fall 2007.  I ordered KnitPicks Wool of the Andes in similar colors to the magazine a while back.  I bought a few other colors in case I wanted to substitute.  But the “golden” color I got ended up being too yellow.  I guess the color name “daffodil” was a warning sign.  The other colors I ordered are all darker colors.  So now I have to figure out what to do in the next day.  Today is the last day to sign up for Ravelympics events.  Do I use the yarn I have, overdye the yellow or order a different color?  If I order more yarn, I should probably just withdraw from my events.  Or maybe enter with a different item.  And why am I worrying about the Ravelympics?  Why don’t I just set my own goals?  I’m not dying to get the badge for the blog.

Okay, so here’s a blocked (kind of) swatch of what I have right now:

I don’t hate it, but I think I’d like it with something a little richer in color.  My other option is the Wool of the Andes Kettle Dyed in Gold.  Should I be concerned that it’s a little variegated?  Would it show up weird?  By the way, I love this base yarn color, Mink Heather.

If I pick another project, it will probably the the Ribbed Mini Dress by Mari Lynn Patrick from Vogue Spring 2007.

This would still be a challenge in the time frame.  Gah!  I just want to get this all sorted out.  Help!

I’ve also been attempting to make/design a strapless dress out of a shit-load of ribbon yarn that I have at home.  I’m not loving it, and want to give up on it already.  I’m making it in the round, top-down with a basic slip stitch pattern.  It looks a little bulky and I’m not sure how flattering it will look.  There will be elastic in the top. I wonder if it will be super heavy.

In finished news, I made another baby hat!  This one is for my sister’s friend who just had a baby this morning.

It’s the Chicken Viking Hat by Sarah Mundy knit in TLC Cotton Plus.  It used about half a ball, maybe a little bit more.  My gauge is a little tighter than recommended, so a little bit smaller than 6-12 months.  Following the pattern, I picked up on the wrong side for the earflaps, so the ridge is on the outside.  I don’t really mind it, and it kind of adds to the viking hat look, I suppose.  The drumsticks were a little awkward.  I had trouble following the pattern on how to reverse the second drumstick, so I experimented with it.  Just made sure my short rows were facing the right direction.  The pattern says to “turn” on the short rows, but you really need to wrap and turn.  Without it, you can see the stuffing through the holes.

I’m pretty happy with it.  Maybe I can get Ben to model it before I send it off. =)

Okay, thanks for the suggestions in advance!

Jill B.

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